Monday January 23 2012



#1

Rear of 2318. In general, mortar looks good, with a couple of holes to be filled with copper mesh, can be covered with mortar later. Utility attachments on second floor look good from ground observation. Garage door and people door on ground level provide opportunities for penetration of exterior wall as well as water pipe, porch beams into brick and electric service entry.

#2

Garage door - bottom needs weather stripping. Recommended to consider an insulation kit that top and side seal, a threshold and weather seal. Also insulation kits are available that will insulate the door - a major source of cold in winter. As the garage is closed off from the rest of the house, it is the first barrier for both pests and weather. The more that can be kept out of the garage in the first place, the better. Better insulation of the door will help the kitchen floor above be warmer.


#3

The people door on the ground level also needs weather stripping. As there is no storm door, side stripping will reduce air leaks. For pests though, the concern is the bottom of the door. Weather stripping is recommended on both sides of the door.


The two pictures below show a few gaps in the mortar on the right side of the basement door - fill with copper mesh, mortar can be added.

#4



#5


#6

Gap around pipe for water faucet between garage door and people door on ground level - surround pipe with copper mesh to eliminate gap. Mortar can be added over mesh.



#7


Electric service entry near top of right side of garage door. Gap needs to be filled using expanding foam. I was unable to examine the other side (inside) of this area due to construction debris. Interior to be inspected further.


#8

Underneath the rear porch for entry to kitchen - some small gaps where the porch is attached to the house - to be filled with copper mesh. (above and below)

#9




#10

A few items with the rear kitchen door. Above (but not seen very well in picture) are a few holes in the mortar to the right of the door. Copper mesh fill, can be covered with mortar. The next five pictures (11 to 15) below show that the bottom of the door needs weather stripping - recommended on both sides of the door.

#11


#12

#13


#14


#15


The two pictures below are about the screen door for the kitchen door. The first picture is a reminder that there is nothing in the top panel of the door. The second shows that the weather stripping on the outside needs adjusting or replacing (plastic sheet coming from under door). Recommended to add weather stripping on interior of screen door also and replace top panel.

#16
#17

The picture below is next to the kitchen door - a little of the insulation foam rope to fill the gap.


#18

Garage interior - Hard to inspect the garage interior until materials are moved. Need to inspect the area around the electric panel when construction items are moved. Also need to inspect bottom and side of garage door, as well as interior walls.

#19
The photo below is of the door into the garage from the basement. The door does not shut snugly, it does not properly latch at the handle and the barrel bolt is tight. I recommend another barrel bolt at the bottom of the door. If exiting the house through the garage door is planned, a barrel bolt on the interior should also be added. Or get the handle fixed so that the door stays tightly shut.


#20




The bottom corner of the door into the garage has some wear. If the door is tightly shut it should not be a problem; still, recommend to add some weather strip on the corner. (Two photos below)

#21
#22


Ceiling in basement in picture below. Crack should get caulk, perhaps copper mesh.
#23

Ceiling light - round fixture on a square box - should be covered - square plate.

#24


Next two photos - exposed rafters in basement between garage and finished room – There are gaps at the top of the interior basement walls at the back and side of the garage and of the wall to the finished front room. These gaps are hard to block. The strategy is to not need to block them by making sure that entry into the ceiling from other points is eliminated.

#25
#26

A few holes on the wall to the finished basement room – copper mesh fill.
#27



Rafters under kitchen area - next two photos taken before cabinet install. Need to reinspect after install.

#28


#29

#30

#31



Under staircase, into finished basement room, see photo #34 for where the pipes go - box along floor in #34

#32

into finished room

#33


Box along floor is where pipes going through wall in #32 go
#34


Grate in all four corners of finished basement room - about 3" clearance under wood floor as measured in photo #37 – concern is the space underneath. Duct tape over half the grate can act as a monitor for any pest activity and still allow ventilation. Check duct tape after one month to see if anything is caught.
#35



#36



#37


#38

Photos #39 through #44 are in the kitchen area. Already have put copper mesh in crack between floor and wall along entire stove/sink/cabinet wall (#40 - #42).

#39 through #39.B are around the kitchen door. Recommend weather stripping on the interior of the door in addition to outside. Copper mesh under door jamb trim.

#39

#39.A

#39.B



#40


#41



#42


#43 – finish should seal crack – copper if needed.


#43

Kitchen island – need to see finished and look from basement.
#44

Radiators…………. In general, few have any collars – all should have copper mesh around pipes and pipe collars.

#45

#46


#47


#48


#49





#50












Small hole in floor in middle space on first floor – needs a solution. Ideally a plug.

#51
#52



















More radiators….
Front upstairs bedroom – copper mesh around radiator pipes and pipe collars.
#53
#54
#55




#56
Radiator in second floor rear bedroom (above and below) - needs copper mesh around pipes, pipe collar to cover.


#57
#58
Front of house - 2318 is the red house to the left. Item to note - area around top of white downspout of 2320 on edge of 2318. The area of the top of the appears to have some gaps. Not of concern unless noises come from that area of front bedroom ceiling. While the downspout area is on neighbor's house, there are often gaps in the buildings at the top where they join.

Areas to further inspect basement bathroom, upstairs bathroom and walk-in wall, attic space, faucet under front porch.